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Not Just for Kiddush
"Blessed art Thou, O Lord our G-d,
King of the universe, who created the fruit of the vine."
Most of us are familiar with that traditional kiddush, the blessing
over the wine, and we tend to associate kosher wine with--something
sweet, dark red, syrupy or Passover.
Today, a new trend is growing in the kosher
wine industry. One might say, a revolution has taken place and the
words associated with it are Sauvignon, Emerald Riesling, Zinfandel
and Chardonnay.
While a segment of the Jewish population today
still drinks only the sweet wines for Shabbat and other ritual occasions,
others are changing the stereotype and discovering that kosher wine
can be a high-quality beverage to have with meals. Many people have
refined their tastes in food, they enjoy wine as a complement, and
they are actively seeking these wines to drink.
Take our community of 22,000 Jews with one kosher
butcher who also has a bakery and grocery section as part of the
store. One wall is now filled with fine kosher table wines from
numerous countries and the United States and Israel.
Wine drinking has had an interesting historical
evolution. Eastern European Jews who immigrated to the United States
in the late 1800s and early 1900s took the grapes available, added
lots of sugar and made their own wine. When the first kosher wines
were produced commercially, they too were sweet and used for rituals.
The first winemaker was actually Noah, so they
say, and when Moses sent spies to explore the land of Israel, they
returned with a cluster of grapes upon a pole. Wine is frequently
mentioned in the Bible and viticulture has become a real science
and art in modern-day Israel.
Not only are kosher wines produced in Israel,
they are also produced in Spain, France, Italy, Denmark, the United
States and other countries.
What makes a wine kosher? Wines are considered
kosher only if Sabbath-observant Jews are involved in the process
from harvesting to fermentation to processing and production. Ingredients
such as gelatin, lactose, glycerines, corn products, non-wine yeast
or most chemical additives are not added during the processing,
lest they render the wine non kosher for year- round use, including
Passover.
All of the American producers of kosher wines
have long histories. All have added to the traditional sweet wine
other varieties such as creams, champagnes, cooking wines and California
varietals.
Articles even appear from time to time in gourmet
food magazines discussing kosher wines today and the changes which
have taken place especially during the 1970s.
Wine can make a difference in cooking as well.
At the end of this chapter is a list of more than 60 recipes in
this cookbook using wines, liqueurs or cordials which we hope you
will enjoy.
The following recipes come from staff members
or the chef from two of the well-known American producers of kosher
wines: Hagafen Cellars in California and Kedem Royal Wine Corporation
in New York State. We have also included some brief synopses of
these two wine producers and some of their recommended recipes.
Next time you think of kosher wine, remember,
"A feast is made for laughter,
And wine maketh glad the life" (Ecl. 10:19)
Sybil Kaplan
Hagafen Cellars, Napa Valley, California
Hagafen ("the vine" in Hebrew) crushed and bottled its
first wines in 1980 and became Napa Valley's only producer of premium
table wines that are also kosher. The winery was founded by Emie
Weir in 1979 and annually produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay,
Johannesberg Riesling, Pinot Noir, Harmonia Red, White and Blush
tables wines. All are either dry or off-dry. Hagafen wines are produced
under strict kosher guidelines. They have won many awards and have
been served on several occasions at the White House.
Kedem Royal Wine Corporation
Through eight generations and more than 140 years, from 19th century
Czechoslovakia through Nazi-occupied Europe to modern-day America,
the Herzog family has operated the Royal Wine Corporation, the world's
largest importer/producer of kosher wines, foods and beverages.
Often referred to as "Kedem," the company traveled a bumpy
road before finding the path to success in America under the then
family leader, Eugene Herzog. The name, Kedem, is derived from the
Hebrew words, chadaish yamanu cakedem, "renew our days as before."
Pears
Poached in Red Wine
Dairy
Hagafen Cellars, Napa, California
Yield: 4 Servings
This recipe was submitted by Nancy Levenberg,
Sales and Marketing.
2 cups Hagafen red wine
1 cinnamon stick
1/3 cup sugar
2 strips lemon peel
2 whole cloves |
4 ripe pears, D'Anjou or
Bose, peeled with pith and seeds removed
Freshly whipped cream with 1 teaspoon vanilla and 1 teaspoon
sugar added |
- Place wine, cinnamon stick, sugar, lemon
peel and cloves in a heavy saucepan. Warm over medium heat until
sugar is dissolved.
- Add the pears so they are covered by the
liquid. If not, add water. Cook the pears on medium-low heat
for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring periodically and turning the
fruit. The pears are done when they are easily pierced by a
sharp knife.
- Remove pears from the pan and set in a
bowl. Increase the heat to high and reduce the liquid by one
half by boiling. Add vanilla and sugar to whipped cream. For
each serving, place two pear halves on a plate, pour reduced
wine sauce on top. Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream.
Preparation and Cooking Time: 1¼ hours
Raspberry
Balsamic Vinaigrette
Pareve
Kedem Royal Wine Corporation, Brooklyn, New York
Yield: 1 1/3 cups
Chef Bare created this for Kedem.
3 ounces Bartenura Balsamic Vinegar
3 ounces Kedem Raspberry Syrup
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon dry herbs
8 ounces extra virgin olive oil
- Blend vinegar, syrup, salt, pepper and
herbs.
- Slowly drizzle in olive oil, beating until
emulsified. Taste and adjust if necessary.
Preparation and Cooking Time: 10 minutes
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